ROTU UMS MOUNT KINABALU EXPEDITION
This is an account where I'm going to reveal about the chronicle of my ambition to conquer the Low's Peak of Mt.Kinabalu (the highest peak in Malaysia). This would be a very long entry...
View from Puncak Resort, Ranau (Taken a year before the expedition)Introduction
Mt. Kinabalu standing at 4095.2m (13,435ft above sea level) is obviously recognized as the highest mountain in Malaysia, 4th in Southeast Asia after Papua's Puncak Jaya, Puncak Trikora and Puncak Mandala and also the 20th tallest mountain in the world by topographic prominence... There are actually 3 gateways to the top, 1st is Timpohon Gate (Summit Trail) at kinabalu Park, 2nd is Mesilau Gate (Mesilau Trail) at Mesilau and 3rd, the long forgotten Minitinduk Gorge (an ancient gateway to Mt.Kinabalu) also known as The Hugh Low Trail at Kiau Village of Kota Belud, an original summit trail used by first documented male climbers, Sir Hugh Low (1851) and Sir John Whitehead (1888), and female climber, Lillian Gibbs (1910).
It is well-known all over the world for its distinctive flora and fauna. As for all this, Mount Kinabalu has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000.
For the local people, it is considered as a compulsory to reach the peak once in a lifetime if you're a true sabahans. I'm still quite remember that, an englishman once talk to me in 2006, the conversation took place at KLIA while I and my national service comrade is just finish our 3 month training at Kem Setia Ikhlas...The englishman then greet me, "Hello pal, nice day haa... where are you from?" . I replied, "owh...I'm from Sabah, just got back from national service. Now I'm heading back to Sabah." After that, he asks again, "Sabah? oh yeah, the other side of Malaysia is it? Have you climbed the Mount Kinabalu?". "nope, still got no chance...maybe next time" I said with a fake smile. He then say, "Hmm....poor you,its good if you can take a challenge whenever you're free to do so. I'd reach the summit 10 years ago...what a remarkable experience". After having a few more talks, he say goodbye and left to his respective departure room... That's why I'm so eager to climb it A.S.A.P but sadly, I'm only finally got the chance in 2011. Haha...at least, it is better late than never...;p
Though that I do had a chance in 2004 for my school programme to climb the Mt.Kinabalu, but it's no doubt at that time I'm not fit enough to take on the toughest job. So, I just drop my name from the list...saving over RM300 of my pockey money...hoho...Now that I'm physically and mentally fit and also well prepared, I'm ready to take on the third tour to Mt.Kinabalu in any available time.
Road to 2011 Expedition (Opportunities & Obstacles)
My ambition to conquer the Low's Peak of Mt.Kinabalu dates back to the opportunity in 2004 that is certainly had already become a history. Actually, I had already climb the Mt.Kinabalu in 8/3/2009. But the 1st tour is just for educational purpose as for my Biology & Ecology of Tropical Forest Course under supervision of Dr.Idris Saad. I do remember the far we had climbed is only about 1.5KM (at Ubah Shelter), not even a half of the overall trail. Well, we only pay RM5 for that reasons. Not much can be expected, otherwise, its only an ordinary field trip where most of the students is unprepared at all.
And then, I got an invitation to join a Mt.Kinabalu Expedition in October 2009 under the flag of MASKUM by my ROTU squad-mate, but then its still just another dream...Because the programme is somehow clashed with my newly assigned post as a Commitee Member of Traffics & Road Safety Division for the TAMU GADANG Ke-11 in-conjunction with 11th UNIVERSITI MALAYSIA SABAH CONVOCATION (05-13 October 2009).
A year passed...In 2010, I realize that the clock is ticking thus reminds me that...Waa!!! Oh My God!!! I'm already in a final year. I might not gonna had any chance if I'm going to waste my precious shrinking time as a university student, yet I'm still not achieving my long time ambition. So, I had been thinking to organize a single trip to Kinabalu Park all alone at all cost. Well, I do have some savings to make it happen...But then, good news come...An expedition is organized under the supervision of Mr.Abdullah a.k.a. Mr.Adul and managed by Farid Esran (under the flag of SITF). The idea came shortly after the end of 12th Family Camp which is held at Puncak Resort,Bundu Tuhan, Ranau. From here, we can see the the majestic view of Mt.Kinabalu so clearly, thus it possibly act as a trigger to such plan of a Mt.Kinabalu climbing expedition.
huhuhu...a lot of obstacles seems to be appear along the way. The pending process, Lack of co-operation, No earnestness, cost problems, commitment with other important event (FYP progress,presentation,training...just to name some...),leads to the total failure of this so-called Event of the year(in my own perspective).This lengthy preparation is on, only till the early January 2011. We even already submitted the final namelist of the participant, collected the money, and having some early preparation (like training...). Only the date not yet being confirmed. Hmm...the date that we picked then being delayed by the Kinabalu Park due to the late of confirmation. The new date is too far advance than we had thought, which is in the end of April. WhAT?!!! In my mind I'd been thinking, What gonna happen if the date clash with the FYP Final Presentation & Submission?! I'm not just gonna throw my money away for an uncertain trip, right? So...just let it go...~__~
I'm absolutely frustrated with the failure of the nearly success organized plan...Because I might not having a time to spend with my buddies after the semester ends...
Well, that's not going to put an end to my ambition. I'm not certainly going to give up. While I'm finding and asking for the other possible Mt.Kinabalu Expedition led by other team... There indeed had some others (like the SPL trip, SSS trip, a mixed UMS students trip...) but I'm not interested in joining any of them because, of course, I'm a stranger among them... plus it is not the kind of a team that I expected to join....
Just when I was planning to give it up...I'm got an invitation to join in the first ever ROTU UMS Mt.Kinabalu Expedition that was planned to be in 09/04/2011-10/04/2011. 2LT Altrie was the Lead Manager of this expedition. It's indeed a totally well-organized expedition. At the time, the required member for senior cadet is only 5 seats, while 3 seat for intermediate cadet and 2 seat for junior cadet. The rest of 12 more members is for the officers and some staffs. The original plan is to have about 22 participant, by the end the number increased to 35 participant. There are also some changes in senior cadet participation. I'm very lucky to have the seat because most of my senior cadet squad-mate didn't have an enough money to afford the only RM150trip which I suppose to be a quite cheap for a typical climbing expedition. The current prices is about RM350++ for local Sabahans & a more expensive price for Sarawakians and Malay Peninsular mountaineers.
Well, for sure...I'm indeed very lucky to have this trip. This is actually a double event expedition because we're involved with the Raleigh International Project to do some environmental work on the Mt.Kinabalu. The task that was given to us is simple, clean up the selected area, then on the way down, we're required to lift up all the rubbish to Timpohon Gate. Another VC event was added later during the D-Day. The journey to the top of Mount Kinabalu will be start in 09/04/2011-10/04/2011 (a 2 days trip). Typically, first day, to 11,000 ft (take rest either in Laban Rata, Panar Laban, Gunting Lagadan resthouses or Layang-layang Hut and the second day, to reach the summit before sunrise.
The final namelist shows that the participant is about 35 peoples, divided into 2 groups 1st with 15people (08-09/04/11) & 2nd with 20people (09-10/04/11).
We were led by Major Haznain(Our Vice Commander), Capt.Haniff (Our Adjutant) with a number of lieutenant, 3 staffs, 7 seniors & 1 Intermediate. Expedition is under the flag of ROTU UMS.
It is only 2 weeks before the actual event by the time of the date confirmation. To be honest, I'm seldom train myself, being highly convinced with my current fitness because of I'm a ROTU cadet (which was typically fit i guess...) hahaha;p, also confident with my youthfullness will defeat the climbing difficulties as I'm in a best form ever...Just a day before the time comes, I'm even involved with an accident with a motorcyclist that cause me a bruise knee...But then, without paying attention to all of that...
The Journey to Conquer the Highest Mountain in Malaysia begin !!!
This is the only things that I bring with me...hehe...Day 1 - 09/04/2011
It was a rainy day that also supposed to be just another ordinary training day for ROTU UMS, but we being given an exception since it was a well-organized activities that involve most officers of ROTU UMS. They were 20 of us, We gather as early as 0600 hour. Other 15 was already depart yesterday. After a brief talk, we depart to Kinabalu Park at 0700 hour. Arrived in Pekan Nabalu at 0900 hour to buy some food and drinks. Arrived in Kinabalu Park a few minutes later, having some preparation and was sent to Timpohon Gate (0KM/0930H) to begin...The time is 0930 hour, I recorded the time along the way up...Our three Kinabalu Park guides joined us for the ascent by foot,namely David Daransuk,Roslia, and ?. One guide act as the lead of the file and the other guide is at the middle and last of the procession respectively. Meanwhile, the three Raleigh International Staff had being waiting for us at RTM Signal Station...At Timpohon Gate, a legible signboard is showing the fastest recorded time up and down Mt.Kinabalu. Apparently, some powerful Italian called Marco De Gasperi managed to complete the mountain in just 2 hours 33 minutes! I'd read an article telling that the recorded time for 2010 Climbathon is what he had smashed his previous record of 2 hours 36 minutes in 2003. Heck, he is totally a monster !!! @_@
In the bus, on the way to Kinabalu Park
The Car Park
~Pose while waiting the ID Tag for our team
While waiting for the registration...
While waiting for the registration...
With Azhari...unfortunately, he is the only one of Mountain Commando that doesn't make it to the summit...haha...poor u!
~My Mind tells I'm ready...shortly before we was sent to Timpohon Gate
The Chosen One -4 Mountain Commando-
ID Tag (front)
ID Tag (back)
At Timpohon Gate...Gettin' ready to ascend soon...
The Historical Expedition is finally begin (10.03AM, 09.04.11)
Group Photo of us before the expedition begin (Senior Cadet Representative, Part of 20 Mountaineers of ROTU UMS)
At 2010 Climbathon Result Signboard...
At Timpohon Gate, just before getting started...We started by walking up a wooden staircase then continued on a jungle track...At the first kilometre, we also passed the beautiful Carson Waterfall...Along the way, there are plenty of spectacular view worth to see like some rare plants and vegetation and also exclusive Mt.Kinabalu treeshrews... owh ya, also a Giant Worm!!!
~The Officers & Staffs
The Carson Waterfall at the first kilometre...
Along the way up...first half of the expedition...
Wooden staircase pathway...
With Azhari & 2LT at KM1.0
Muddy pathway along the way up...
Lowland Rainforest Pathway...
Human made pattern...on the tree bark...
Reach our first rest stop!!!
This is the 1st shelter, so, I should take the picture...hehe...
While waiting for the others to come, lets take a pic. first....hehe...
Giant Worm that we found...
Giant Worm, look at the size of it!We arrived at Kandis Shelter (1.5KM/1030h), Ubah Shelter (1.5KM/1100h), Lowii Shelter (2.5KM/1126h), Mempening Shelter (3.0KM/1201h), but then cross to RTM (1231h) to do some environmental work, and finally arrived at Layang-Layang Hut (1507h). The end of the first half...
Over-crowded with tourists at Mempening Shelter...The environmental work that we involved with the Raleigh International is to clean up the Navy Signal Camp (Rebro Station) that look a bit messy with rubbish all the way around it.
At Navy Signal Post (Rebro Station)
At RTM Quarters (Signal Station)In Layang2 Hut, we having some rest, playing cards, eating maggie...& sleep like a sardin..in a concentrated hut. (Layang2 Hut is quite small for a 20 people) + the Raleigh staffs + several guides & porters.
Waiting for the next day at Layang-Layang HutSleep till 2000h. I woke up & pretend to meditate at the outside waiting for the rain to stop and the 2300h to come...also hoping a good weather to come. In advance, I started my morning with my headlamp, snow cap, triple layer clothing (Windbreaker, Sweater and T-Shirt), my NO.4 army track bottoms, my red-metal-alloy climbing stick, gloves, a SONY camera, watch, a bottle of 500ml 100PLUS and my precious DUNLOP hiking shoes.
My watch shows the sign...Its Time...2300h. The rain had finally cool down...Everybody busy to prepare for the final push...Indeed, I'd ready an hour earlier with some courage & morale to reach the top first. A good sign of success I guess...hahaha ;p
My heart beat faster than ever...
The second half of the expedition will now officially begin!!!
Day 2 - 10/04/2011 (The Historical Day/ D-Day)
In the second phase, I'm so eager to match up with the Guide that was so extremely fit. owh... he didn't looks tired at all...Both of us manage to arrive at Laban Rata (2345h) ~take only 45minutes from layang2 which was indeed considerably fast...hoho...The others was totally left out ;p
Arriving at Laban Rata accompany with the Guide...
Arriving at Laban Rata accompany with the Guide...
Outside the Laban Rata Restaurant...Then, we rest till about 0200h, but delayed because of bad weather. Finally at 0240h something...we continue ascend towards the top. As we walked further, the weather started to get colder and colder as we are approached higher altitude. I know that a single stop could risk my long time ambition. I'm surely cannot stop to rest for too long or I will get really cold and slow down easily. Later, we manage to pass the Sayat-Sayat Check Point, so, meaning that I had a confirmed success. Just another 1.8KM but then, the weather are gettin' even worse...The summit plateau seems to look steeper than it supposed to be. With the slippery rock, heavy rain, strong winds; I'm now depends heavily to the climbing rope. But then, by the time we finally reach the peak, the rain stops. I would say, the last 2KM was the toughest journey for me by far. With a condition of my body, my legs were very tired and my feet started to ache, our guide keep motivating us to just continue our climb as the Low's Peak are gettin' nearer. For instance, my mind kept telling myself to keep walking...It is totally a physically and mentally torture. Out of original five who passed together at Sayat-Sayat CheckPoint namely (Myself,2LT Hafiz, Cpl.Redzuan, Capt.Haniff, Sufri), only me and 2LT Hafiz made it first but obviously we're totally outmatched compared to the guide that accompany us along the way up. There are only 3 of us now at the frontline. The climb continues and it looks endless. Without realizing it, our guide suddenly say, "jalan saja, atas tu sampai suda dii..." FINALLY!!!
Although that I'm the first person who reach the top (for 10/04/2011)...Hohoho... it is actually a double because me and 2LT Hafiz (my senior YO) both reach at the same time. The time recorded is 4.58am(0458h) Then came our guide shortly. We overjoyed ourself. Then, 10 minutes later, Cpl. Redzuan ...And then, a singaporean who I've met earlier at Laban Rata, the German Couple, and the Englishman. We take a picture together...Later, a group of people show up...the summit now is crowded with peoples. Its nearly dawn & it is not rainy anymore. I wanted to see the beautiful sunrise but our guide advice us to go down as we already taking too much time here, so, why not give space to the others because a lot more will come up soon. On the way of going down, I'd met with Supri and Capt.Haniff. They just made it in time.
On top of Low's Peak, Signboard mark the vantage point.
I'm at the top, 4095.2M The Low's Peak (arrived at 4.58am....~1 of the 3 earliest...hoho~~)
Me & The Singaporean
We did it!!! The TOP 4
We did it!!! The TOP 4 (The Successful ROTU UMS Expedition 2011)I'm staying at the summit plateau waiting for Sufri to take a lot of picture while going down with satisfying emotion. I'm continue to explore the treacherous Kinabalu mountain peaks while waiting... I can see the majestic view of dawn, and also the cloud formation which is unusual. It is quite the opposite of observing it from sea level where the clouds are above the horizon. Of course, this fantastic impression cannot be forgotten easily. It will stay in my mind for years to come... for sure^_^
A Breath-taking Scenic View at the Summit Plateau
~Pose in front of the famous St.John Peak
~Behind me is the famous St. John Peak of Mount Kinabalu....
~with my Mountain Guide, miss Roslia......very helpful...fitness i can say that i'm completely outmatched... U.U ~~wuwuwu
Other mountaineers...
White rope shows the direction towrads the summit, Low's Peak!
~Down below is The Sayat-Sayat CheckPoint
Another Breath-taking Scenic View at the Summit Plateau...
~It is bloody cold out here......hoho..
~Some steep pathway
Sometime, this require a highly rock climbing skill...hehe...
Some beautiful & unique vegetation at the top plateau ...
Some beautiful & unique vegetation at the top plateau ...As I reach the Sayat-sayat Hut, I'd met up with Major Haznain who ask me to help him with his Wings and also I'd being given an important task as a photographer to capture his historical moment. He going to do a para-gliding & landed at Kundasang. He indeed had safely landed quite some time later. (This is the 3rd event that I'm telling you before...)
Major Haznain checking his equipment before flyin'
A special camera intact at his (Maj. Haznain) feet to record his historical moment...
VC doing a final preparation...
Nice pose, Sir.....hehe...
Taking Photo with Vice Commander before he fly...
VC gettin' prepared....
A number of Guide & Porters gather to see the event...
Helping the VC to set up his wings...
~Just a second before VC run & fly...
~VC running towards the sky...
~He is now in the sky...Wow...Cool!!! Next time perhaps I should try for it too...
Public Phone Booth is available up to 3700M (12 139.1ft)
Pose at Sayat-Sayat Check Point...
I'm done babe.....cool huh?! hahaha~~
The Montane rainforest of Mt.Kinabalu
Montane Rainforest Pathway
Cement Staircase Pathway...
Highland Paradise at Mt.Kinabalu
Another wooden staircase up the mountain...
Spectacular view of Laban Rata Resthouse...
At Laban Rata
The Scenic View of Laban Rata Resthouse
~Pose at Laban Rata
look endless.... ~__~By the end of the day, only 10 out of 20 arrived safely on the top of the Mt.Kinabalu when I safely arrived downhill at Timpohon Gate, it was already 1600h something....Others would arrived much much later.......
Until we meet again! Mt. Kinabalu...
A memorial picture taken to commemorate our expedition
Another sudden Group Photo...hoho...
Our Capt. & Staffs (for 10.04.2011)
Wave up the banner!!! Hurraahhh...I'm finally become the second person in my family to conquer the Mt.Kinabalu. The first is my mother who had conquered it in 1980 during her secondary school.
My Precious First-Class Certificate...hohoho....While the Low's Peak is commonly used by tourist...There are actually over 20 peaks waiting on the top to be conquered. Although Mt.Kinabalu seems to have a plenty of peak up there, some peaks is considered as inaccessible to any but winged animals. Here are some pictures of the peaks that I had taken.
The Highest Point, Low's Peak (4095.2 m)
The Summit Plateau of Mt.Kinabalu
The solid granite rock plateau of Mt.Kinabalu
Puncak Seringgit a.k.a The South Peak (It's on the RM1 note) (3922 m)
The South Peak, taken from different angle...To see a detailed information regarding the Peaks of Mt.Kinabalu, Please Click Here:
The Peaks of Mount Kinabalu
Currently at KM1.0, standing at 2039M
Currently at KM1.5, standing at 2164M
Currently at KM2.0, standing at 2252M
Currently at KM2.5, standing at 2350M
Currently at KM3.0, standing at 2455M
At KM5.0, 3001M (Picture taken later during the way down)
At KM6.0, 3290M (Picture taken later during the way down)
At KM6.5, 3426M (Picture taken later during the way down)
At KM7.0, 3653M (Picture taken later during the way down)
At KM8.5, 4008M (Picture taken later during the way down)Epilogue
So, this is my 10 advices to a first-timer;
- Take your time, relax and admire the scenic view of Mt.Kinabalu from the Timpohon observatory platform, considering that you've gotten a lengthy journey in advance so you will need your energy.
- You need to keep your climb enthusiasm in a reasonable stage along the expedition. It is best to keep your mentally fit all the time.
- While climbing, learn how to control your breathing. As for myself, whenever I walk just breath through the nose. Don't always breath through the mouth because your mouth will dry faster if you open your mouth regularly. Your heartbeat rate will increase...This is also will make you tend to drink. Too much water isn't good during climbing (for me lah...)
- Only bring necessary things, don't bring too much cloth because sometime the weather isn't always promising. But, if you insist to bring..no problem,just bring along a raincoat for your pack.
- Food! this is important...you're not necessarily to bring rice or some heavy food.During the break-time, just eat adequately. No need to full...your stomach will feel so sicken. Chocolate bars is more than enough and also 100PLUS or some energy-gain drinks. Maggie is quite good in a cold place like this...It tastes 20x delicious than the ordinary taste at hostel...hehehe...
- Don't too show off! its only giving the others a negative impression towards you ...Don't talk nonsense along the way up! I mean it...taboo... Owh ya, also apply the Leave No Trace Ethics...
- Don't walk too fast, yet don't walk too slow....moderate is okay. Sometime, if it's a rainy day, you're in a bad timing. Heavy rain will prevent you from climbing up. Even the guide will block you. Its for your own safety, the final climbing take place in the late of night particularly in about 2300h. So, in any chances, just race against time whenever possible...
- During the final push to the top, always thinking about the aftermath or keep questioning yourself like..."Is it worth your money & time if you can't even reach the top?" The scenery is awesome dowgh. You will be highly regret if you fail to...
- Always follow your guide, don't walk to far from him/her...because they're the one who judging whether you're qualified to get a high class certificate...hehe...the climbers who didn't reach the top only got a black&white certificate which is....NOT COOL!!! ;p
- Stay on top to see the majestic view of beautiful sunrise and panoramic cloud formation... This is certainly something that you really don't want to miss.
But if you fit/confident enough to put aside all of this advices...then you should thinking of racing towards the top...You're in a different level now even if you're a first timer... Try to overtake the foreigner climbers coz quite a number of them are extremely fit & reach the top first...Try not to get ousted!!! Oh ya...overtake your guide too...hahaha...
Well, if you're again...a more highly skill climbers or so-called extremely expert....then you should join the Climbathon & face up with the GIANTS... ;p
In conclusion, this 3 in 1 event, namely,
1. Mt.Kinabalu Climbing Expedition
2. Environmental/Conservation Project
3. VC Mt.Kinabalu Paragliding...
~Mission accomplished......hell yeah~~ ^^V
I strongly recommend that you try this once in a lifetime as it is something that is worth all the hard work, effort and time. You won't miss the feeling of being able to conquer a mountain which is tremendously sensational.
After this, If only I got another chance to climb Mt.Kinabalu...I would definitely take on the Mesilau Trail Challenge or a hardcore challenge at the Eastern Plateau? or Low's Gully exploration? or give it a try to the Mt.Kinabalu Via Ferrata or even trace back The Hugh Low Trail... hohoho~~ I'm just gonna wait for that....adios^^
Here I want to share a quote with you guys;
“Once you have experienced it yourself, only then can you share what Mount Kinabalu is all about.”
(Tan Sri DSP Joseph Pairin Kitingan, The Borneo Post 18/7/2011)
Futher Info :
1. Minitinduk Gorge (The Hugh Low Trail)
2. Mt.Kinabalu Via Ferrata
3. The History of Mt.Kinabalu Climbing
Related Post :
Mount Kinabalu (1st Tour)
The Peaks of Mount Kinabalu
